UNDER THE COUNCIL MADRONE (Yulupa to the Lost Coast)

Oct 2013

...I woke up in a hotel in Yulupa. It was cool and rainy, but the TVs said it was September.
Later that day I went outside and frolicked among some unusual plants, so reveling in the ways of folk here not pushing me to "keep moving" with the winds like in the other places I had been. A health food store was nearby, and amid the busy townspeople gathering food for the winter ahead, a couple of fellow travelers saw me and we shared our stories under some tall trees.  I learned that "Yulupa," known also as Santa Rosa, got its name from the golden sun sparkling on the waters.

Then I was on a bus headed north, and the news reporters kept saying something about a "government shutdown." The people around here ignored these claims and went about life as if this change had no effect.  Passing verdant vineyards and golden-hilled live oak savanna, I felt a rush of euphoria and understood this was the path my faerie guide had laid out for me.  At each stop, I wanted to get out and feel the air but I knew I would be left wherever I got off. Night came and the canopy of giant trees engulfed us on the curvy, hilly highway. It felt as if we all were together in waking dreamstate on the bus, "somewhere in between" realms, as in a long dark tunnel.
 This was the space-time that the orcs and wraiths and mercenaries could show their faces to those innocent or unaware, and take advantage of them.

I called out to my faerie guide, asking that for the next body of water I were to touch, if she would appear to me in sparkling form and take me away for "at least a moment." My destination would have flowing water and giant old trees, and I badly needed the recharge.
By the sunset of the following day, I had stood on the fallen trunk of the "Council Madrone," the largest Coast Madrone tree in the world; washed my face in the hillside spring waters, and stood on driftwood at the Mattole Lagoon, a magical place where the small river breaks the coastal mountains to the ocean.



My gracious host, a mama-bear woods elf coming into her own, fed me and gave me shelter in exchange for community and land help. With her outdoor furnace on the hilltop, we cooked and kept warm using hot-burning madrone tree branches.





About the place-name "Yulupa":
http://santarosa.towns.pressdemocrat.com/2012/07/news/place-names-how-yulupa-got-its-name/

coastline by the Mattole Lagoon.

About that "legendary peacemaker" the Council Madrone:
http://www.digthatcrazyfarout.com/madrone/

HELL is full of Cypress Trees and Lilypads (Brown and occasionally Red)

when I talked last year about the wildness of natural Florida I missed a few places...namely that east bank of the mostly undeveloped Apalachicola River, with the Apalachicola National Forest, a town called Sumatra, and the most unwelcoming-named parkland ever, Tate's Hell State Forest!
When we first arrived the swamp was strangely silent, and the complex network of gravel roads was very confusing with occasional mudholes. But after a night camping under bright moonlight with a shore breeze, we found the forest teeming with wildlife- deer, an eagle, owls just after dawn, however they make themselves scarce so you won't see them unless you're on foot in the woods. Dwarf- cypress trees stand among the pines in some swampier areas, and there are interesting finds in others...and a fountain spring by our campsite, near the slow, dark waters of the New River..

for the story of Cebe Tate and the origin of the forest name...http://www.tateshell.com/ and for official park information...http://www.fl-dof.com/state_forests/tates_hell.html

Mama Shasta and Mama Lassen's Volcanic Love: burning hearts of the pacific crest

listen to your mothers.
when I first rode along the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway, toward Mt Lassen in upper California, I could immediately feel the intense energy that still flows almost 100 years after Lassen's major eruption in May 1915. A week later, I take for granted the lava rock debris constantly under our feet, the holy igneous boulders we sit on that line the creeks. We are covered in red dust by day but under moonlight the same dusty hills become purple and magical. And from the pines that do stand here, hang mammoth cones and coalesce chunks of amber.

they are the southern saints. before Mt Saint Helens erupted in 1980, the most recent continental USA volcanic eruption was from Lassen. when you are here, imagine what your surroundings looked like just one hundred years ago, old-growth forest all around. let your hooves brush the ground. "a brief moment in the ancient battle between earth-shaping forces of creation and destruction." -nps.gov website
camping at the foot of lady lava lamp Lassen for three july nights, each day was scorching dry heat but as soon as the sun set this amazing breeze blew through, becoming more constant as the night went on. it is this mix of warm and cool, dry but green, that I can see why so many people have found comfort living among these volatile hills.

http://www.volcaniclegacybyway.org/
http://www.nps.gov/lavo/naturescience/eruption_lassen_peak.htm

Mount Shasta is even more majestic, a place so intensely powerful I barely can write about it! But John Muir was able to - after his first visit he said "my blood turned to wine and I have not been weary since." such is the praise which people have given this mountain, sacred to several indian tribes and a center for many more recently-arrived spiritual paths. A fellow traveler mentioned a visit where there was a band singing songs to the dormant volcano. it is said there is a city inside the mountain, Telos, and various accounts of visiting the Lumerian city of Telos can be found around the web.
she rises over 14000 feet, always snowcapped, regardless of the warm dry air below her. she is the second-highest volcano of all of the Cascades, and visible from sixty miles in almost all directions. in the evening light, her bare rock face turns a purple-grey tint as she looks down upon the Juniper Flats her long-ago eruptions helped create. Her most recent eruption was 200 years ago, on the north face (Military Pass) where we spent the most time.
in the town of Mt Shasta on the west ("front side"), which I said was like a Lhasa for the US, the city park holds the headwaters of the Sacramento River, main watersource for the north part of the Central Valley. water just flows out of the mountainside into a pool, where visitors fill water containers, bathe their faces and arms, meditate, discuss spiritual matters.
there was hardly enough time to go to Panther Meadows, the renowned gathering space and hiking area way up on the tree-line, that will be for next visit! and telos. but out there on the dusty "military pass" road on the north we saw enough.
giant shadows spread across adjacent mountain the Whaleback with no clouds or airplanes above. large animal tracks of different animals in the red dirt. and of course, tall pines and porous lava rock everywhere. amid that cool dry night breeze. the breeze of life. it was a blessing from Mama Shasta, a fitting end for this amazing trip, a wish and destiny fulfilled, to stand in the presence of such a powerful, awe-inspiring place, the image of many dreams, the "heart-chakra of the pacific crest," the destination of the Coyote.
I will visit you again, mothers.

various Mt Shasta webpages:
http://www.siskiyous.edu/shasta/fol/nat/henn.htm
http://www.sacred-destinations.com/usa/mount-shasta
http://www.stateparks.com/shasta.html
http://www.greatdreams.com/shasta.htm

Lookout! singing in crystal canyons is singing in cathedrals

Lookout Mountain again: Cloudland Canyon – there are caverns beneath with lakes!

Cloudland, near Chattanooga yet in Georgia, is really the gem of Lookout Mountain, so beautiful I keep coming back every time I'm nearby. This time, we descended to the second falls then again to a third one deep into the canyon, and by this time we were singing and drumming the rails on the way down! Each waterfall has its own personality: The first, our gulf golden-child that gets the attention it deserves;

the second one tall, distant, secretive – doesn't realize its own beauty!

The third (and last, as far as we know) forgotten, smaller, dark, and deep. Yet totally cool.
And then there are would-have been falls in between, where instead of water cascading down the surface, it drips deep inside the rock, you can see it if you're careful to look.

SAVAGE GULF STATE NATURAL AREA – BEERSHEBA SPRINGS, TENNESSEE

Savage Gulf and other gulfs, midsummer with the faeries and country legends on the plateau, “living proof” of sharks...or muskies! Bodysurfin' the Appalachians, swimmin' holes and movin' stars.

It began at Stone Door Camping Area, where we arrived just before sunset, enough time to set up our tent and walk over to small Laurel Falls behind the ranger office. I had been to Cumberland Plateau before, knowing in advance about the gulfs, the bowl-shaped pools at the bottom of waterfalls, that almost define this area of Tennessee. Contrast this with the sharp cliffs of the Blue Ridge (see “go forth into the waterfall”) and how these falls are more kind to swimmers and divers.

greeter falls

There are several gulfs, falls, and sinks spread across the park, a huge area of the west face of the Plateau, but Greeter Falls is the most well-known to locals since it's so easily reachable from its parking lot. By the time we reached the lower falls next morning, it was already hot and a group of teenage boys were swimming and diving. Nature's bath, clear and so cold! Since the boys were so loud, some fish swam to us as we bathed in the sunlight.

The campground? Remote and dark yet not far from the parking lot, with pit toilets close and flush toilets still not too far. And fire pits with plenty of already-cut wood around, perfect for sister fire-breather to keep a healthy flame for hours while white-tailed songs we played into the late night. The wood turned out filled with termites, though, suffering for our solstice fun as they were engulfed in the flames.

Fun Fact: The park's Stone Door rock was used for a climactic moment in the film “Living Proof” about Hank Williams, Jr.

If you go, camping is free on all parts of the park but requires a permit. Also, it is said that many poisonous snakes (rattlesnakes, copperheads) call the park home, but we didn't find any.

for more about Savage Gulf:
http://www.tennessee.gov/environment/na/natareas/savage/